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No. 10 — Spring 2022

This January, our Emmy award-winning series produced in partnership with KCET / PBS SoCal, The Migrant Kitchen, returned for its fourth season. For the first time, the series left California to travel across the country to get to know a new generation of chefs who are reshaping America’s culinary landscape. 

But the stories told in The Migrant Kitchen are larger than what any 30-minute episode can contain, so we made this edition of Life & Thyme Post: The Migrant Kitchen Issue.

This issue serves as a supplement to The Migrant Kitchen, diving deeper into the stories of the season. Go into the inner workings of ranching and Black ownership with Lloyd Prince in Houston. Explore the battle for food sovereignty in Puerto Rico with Daniella Rodríguez Besosa. Get Chef Jon Yao’s guide to the San Gabriel Valley, and trace Slavic immigration to the U.S. through its cuisine. Embark on a foraging trip for morels in Portland with Karl Holl, and more.

In This Issue

At Sohui Kim’s Brooklyn Restaurants, Korean Food Is American as Apple Pie
By Dakota Kim

Sohui Kim is at the forefront of technique- and flavor-driven Brooklyn cuisine with her three restaurants, where she serves Korean-inflected American food derived from her family memories and ancestral traditions.

Portland Chef and Forager Karl Holl Prepares Forest-Inspired Menus
By Elena Valeriote

Through his highly seasonal approach to cooking and the launch of his new business venture, chef and forager Karl Holl shares the experience of foraging the forests of the Pacific Northwest.

The Best Eats and Drinks in the San Gabriel Valley According To Kato’s Jon Yao
By Ferron Salniker

Acclaimed Chef Jon Yao of Kato shares his childhood haunts and new favorite places to eat and drink in the San Gabriel Valley.

The Spirit of Soul Food
By Kayla Stewart

Soul food’s story is rooted in survival and foundational to America’s claim to be a place of diversity and inclusivity—a claim unfulfilled, yet dutifully influenced by the contributions of Black America.

Reigniting a Legacy
By Lindsey Allen

Coming from Houston’s inner city, Lloyd Prince now leads a farm-to-table beef brand and is continuing the rich history of Black cattle ranchers.

Markets and Delis Connect Slavic Families To Old-World Traditions
By Marianne Dhenin

The ready-made meals, frozen dumplings, fresh-baked bread, and other staples on offer at these West Coast markets have long histories of Soviet migration.

“Farmers feel like they are on their own, and there is so much red tape and bureaucracy that it seems impossible to feel that the work we do can spread in the way it needs to.” 

— Daniella Rodríguez Besosa, The Uphill Battle for Food Sovereignty in Puerto Rico

Sip, Bite, Repeat: A Guide to Zakuski
By Nicole Ziza Bauer

Whether simple or extravagant, zakuski aren’t just vodka chasers. They reflect the essence of Slavic hospitality.

Artisanal Rum Distilleries Make Room for Themselves in Puerto Rico
By Paola Nagovitch

Local Puerto Rican producers like San Juan Artisan Distilleries are innovating to find a niche in an industry dominated by rum giants that have been in business for decades.

Insa’s Gogi Mandu
By Sohui Kim

A recipe for Insa’s pork and chive dumplings courtesy of Chef Sohui Kim.

Kachka’s Pelmeni Recipe
By Chef Bonnie Frumkin Morales

Portland, Oregon’s acclaimed Kachka provides a recipe for pelmeni from the restaurant’s 2017 eponymous cookbook.

Kato’s Steamed Turbot
By Jon Yao

Los Angeles’ Michelin-starred Kato provides its recipe for steamed turbot.

“I often think to myself, ‘Holy shit, if I could be my grown-up self and transport myself back there and replace that seven-year-old surly, bored child, what would I ask my grandmother and the monks about the way that Koreans survive by being fastidious—foraging, pickling and making things with patience, for years and years, until the doenjang and soy sauce are just right?’ To me, that’s Korean food and the way I aspire to be cooking.”

— Sohui Kim, At Sohui Kim’s Brooklyn Restaurants, Korean Food Is American as Apple Pie

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